Some install info for those who want to know. Sorry -I just could not write a step by step without writing a book.
This pic is of air tool in spark plug hole. Used 100psi of pressure to hold up valves while changing springs. I made the air tool - common parts - the 14mm spark plug end was purchased from a parts store in the help section - it is a 14mm oil foul adapter.
http://www.aglobalmart.com/Mach/air.jpg
Misc pictures of how I marked the sprockets. If you put the mark on crank sprocket at 6:00 o'clock then the cams sprockets marks go at 12:00 o'clock in relationship to valve cover surface. No marks needed if using the 6 & 12 o'clock method. Marking the sprockets before pulling can actually keep you from having to care about where everything is located. Be sure to mark both long chains at the 6 o'clock spot on crank gear. I cleaned all the gears with paint thinner so paint would stick. You will notice that I did not mark the large sprocket (green paint) at twelve o'clock. I marked the chain and sprocket using the timing mark on sprocket from factory. That is where that mark ends up if you have the crank sprocket at 6:00 o'clock and the cams at 12:00 o'clock.
http://www.aglobalmart.com/Mach/sprockets.jpg
http://www.aglobalmart.com/Mach/sprockets1.jpg
Tensioner on long chains is mostly hydraulic - after removing, you can use a c clamp to compress - that removes all the oil and will reinstall by hand without clamp or locking in place.
http://www.aglobalmart.com/Mach/tensioner.jpg
Tensioner on small chains have a small hole that allows you to insert something to hold compressed. I used a c clamp to compress then inserted a small allen wrench. I did not remove these tensioners from motor.
http://www.aglobalmart.com/Mach/tenlock.jpg
Tools I used to install valve springs - takes a lot of patience. Valve locks have to be put in with telescopic magnet while compressing spring with one hand. Walk away every now and then and come back. The pick tool help me position locks. You will notice that I picture both 2V and 4V spring tools - the 2V tool actually did the exhaust easier than the 4V tool. 2V tool will not do intake springs. If you don't want to buy both tools - buy the 4V tool. I figured I would buy both and sell after the job - probably get most of my money back - they are somewhat expensive - $200 for both.
http://www.aglobalmart.com/Mach/tools.jpg
I found no 4V articles online where anyone installed springs with heads on car. I did find one where someone did it on a 2V motor - a lot easier and half as many parts.
Many have had trouble getting the brake booster off the firewall. There is one nut on the bottom left on the firewall. Long extension and a knuckle joint works great. There are three nuts inside under the dash - top left hardest one. I removed the electric switch which revealed the 4th bolt. The switch is easy to remove with a pair of needle nose pliers on the back side of switch.
Passenger side valve cover - remove heater lines from firewall - was able to press locks and remove by hand with no special tools. Remove fuel line - plastic fuel line tool does that job. Loosen the fuel rail - I did not remove, but would have helped some.
Many put rockers on new cams before bolting cams in place. I did it the hard way and I think the best way. I bolted the cams in place and used spring tool to put them back on - slow, but no chance of breaking a cap. If you do put all the rockers in place on the cams and bolt caps on - tighten all the caps in very small even increments bringing them down slowing to prevent breaking a cap.
I did buy all new gaskets - about $35 for front cover and valve covers. Just could not see risking an oil leak after all that work. Used a small spot of black rtv wear heads meet block and where timing cover meets heads. Ford does the same thing - you will see where they used rtv. I also put a very small bead on oil pan gasket to be sure no problems.
Hardest Part of the job:
No doubt - valve springs
Other than that - just getting the valve covers off and leaving enough room to work on springs. Exhaust springs are the hardest since they are at the bottom. No shortcuts if you plan on doing the springs - brake booster does need to come off - some just loosen enough to get covers off - will be in the way of getting to springs. I would not do a cam swap without springs - the stockers are very weak which could hurt high rpm horsepower.
I did remove the water pump - we have the electric pump and was in the way of front cover. Stock water pump does not have to be removed. Also removed the water resorvoir tank and electric fan. Fan probably could stay - I just wanted all the room I could get for balancer removal.
I would not install cams unless you have headers and free flowing exhaust. Cams can actually hurt performance with stock exhaust.
I have seen articles where people say our heads do not benefit from cams without porting - bull. I have never seen a head on a flow bench that it did not flow more with higher lift than stock and that is true for the Mach heads. You will make more power - it's just a question of how much. Things that might make the install show no gains - improper install - poor exhaust system - failure to re-tune for proper air/fuel. If a motor is on the rich side before install - you might be dead on after the install with no tune, but needs to be checked. Remember - cams put more air into motor - more fuel is also needed.
Important Note About 4V Cams
All four cams are different. There is a right and left intake and exhuast cam. You must keep up with which one you pull and match to correct new cam. I did not see any markings on the new cam stating what they were. I just pulled one out of the motor and layed it on a counter top side by side with a new one. You have to match them up by lobe placement - easy to do and they differ enought to keep from getting confused. Some brands mark them for you, but I would still lay side by side to make sure.
For the very technically minded:
Degreeing the cams - a degree wheel and a dial indicator is needed. Top dead center is very easy since sparkplug right over top of piston. Other than checking - I would not degree unless I found a huge error in one of the cams or sprockets. To properly degree all four cams - you may need multi indexed sprockets for the four cams and the crank. I could not find anyone who sells the indexed sprockets. This is one reason I chose Ford cams - they are pretty close. Keep in mind that these motors over a period of time will retard the cams as the long chains wear - not much, but will occur. Stock sprockets can have new indexed slots cut by a machinist - be sure to check his work.