Front Brakes - 2003-04 Mach 1 Registry Owners Club

RedLiner · 05-02-2007, 07:05 PM

Well, after 41k miles it was time for me to replace my front brake pads. This is my first time attempting to change brake pads and I tried using the search feature, but I couldn't get the search to open.

I have the caliper & bracket off and am now ready to pull the rotor. Does it just slide off, is there anything else I need to do besides just pull on the rotor to get it off? Also, do you guys have any tips for setting the pads? Should I do the inboard or outboard pads first? When I get to the inboard pads and press it into the piston, should I put something on the bleed screw so I'm not pushing fluid back through the system?

Also, I figure while the bracket and caliper are off it's a good time to go ahead and paint them. Any paint you guys recommend or an easy process of doing this? I'm thinking of painting them blue or black.

Any tips and helpful info is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks guys!

Charles236 · 05-02-2007, 08:05 PM

I did a four wheel brake job on my Mach recently. On the front, I left the old pads in place after I pulled the calipers from the bracket, and used a X shaped disc brake pad spreader made by Snap On to push the pistons back in. I used a caliper service tool from Harbor Freight Tools to push in/screw in the rear calipers. Some people loosen the bleeder screw when compressing the piston back into the caliper for the reason you mentioned, but I don't, I would rather flush the entire brake system if I have any thoughts of the fluid being contaminated or too old. To remove the rotors, just slide them off. If they heve never been off before, cut the thin retaining clip off the lug bolts to slide them off. These clips are an assembly line aid, and do not need to go back on when you reassemble the brakes. Just from my experience, if your front brakes are worn thin, check your rear brakes, mine were worn thinner than the fronts, almost to the point of metal to metal contact while the front could have gone several thousand miles more.

RedLiner · 05-03-2007, 02:02 PM

Thanks for the help!! I got the rotors off and the new pads are pressed in the caliper, just waiting now to get the rotors back from being turned. I also went ahead and checked my rear brakes and they look fine. Any tips on how to break in the new pads??

ScreaminMachOne · 05-04-2007, 07:57 PM

Yo Ben I have wheel locks if you need them still

RAT · 05-04-2007, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedLiner

Thanks for the help!! I got the rotors off and the new pads are pressed in the caliper, just waiting now to get the rotors back from being turned. I also went ahead and checked my rear brakes and they look fine. Any tips on how to break in the new pads??

Plenty of info here on pad/rotor bed-in

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml

RedLiner · 05-04-2007, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScreaminMachOne

Yo Ben I have wheel locks if you need them still

Thanks Cory, but I ended up walking my test drive route and found the wheel lock a couple miles from the house, I'm surprised it stayed on the lug that long!! :LAUGH:

hawk · 05-04-2007, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedLiner

Thanks Cory, but I ended up walking my test drive route and found the wheel lock a couple miles from the house, I'm surprised it stayed on the lug that long!! :LAUGH:

Good thing it didn't sling it into the air and bust the windshield or dent the car!

I only left mine on once, and luckily it fell off as I backed down the driveway. Now I always set the little bag for it next to the shifter, whenever it is out of the bag. If I were to try to leave with it on the wheel I would get a reminder.

Charles236 · 05-05-2007, 02:48 PM

I never have left my wheel lock key on the lug, but that is only because I do like Hawk and put the bag on the console next to the shifter to remind me. Getting old and forgetful makes turning wrenches more challenging.

RedLiner · 05-05-2007, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hawk

Good thing it didn't sling it into the air and bust the windshield or dent the car!

I only left mine on once, and luckily it fell off as I backed down the driveway. Now I always set the little bag for it next to the shifter, whenever it is out of the bag. If I were to try to leave with it on the wheel I would get a reminder.

Good thinkin!! I usually just keep the bag on the garage floor when I'm changing wheels so I see it once I'm done, I think I was just excited I had some new brake pads on and wanted to go take her for a little spin!! :LAUGH:

.....hope I'm not this forgetful 20+ years from now.

05-02-2007, 07:05 PM	#1
RedLiner Line Lock Wussy Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Martinsburg, WV Posts: 1,258	Front Brakes Well, after 41k miles it was time for me to replace my front brake pads. This is my first time attempting to change brake pads and I tried using the search feature, but I couldn't get the search to open. I have the caliper & bracket off and am now ready to pull the rotor. Does it just slide off, is there anything else I need to do besides just pull on the rotor to get it off? Also, do you guys have any tips for setting the pads? Should I do the inboard or outboard pads first? When I get to the inboard pads and press it into the piston, should I put something on the bleed screw so I'm not pushing fluid back through the system? Also, I figure while the bracket and caliper are off it's a good time to go ahead and paint them. Any paint you guys recommend or an easy process of doing this? I'm thinking of painting them blue or black. Any tips and helpful info is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks guys! __________________ 2001 DHG Bullitt -Patiently awaiting Coyote swap

05-02-2007, 08:05 PM	#2
Charles236 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 1,150	Re: Front Brakes I did a four wheel brake job on my Mach recently. On the front, I left the old pads in place after I pulled the calipers from the bracket, and used a X shaped disc brake pad spreader made by Snap On to push the pistons back in. I used a caliper service tool from Harbor Freight Tools to push in/screw in the rear calipers. Some people loosen the bleeder screw when compressing the piston back into the caliper for the reason you mentioned, but I don't, I would rather flush the entire brake system if I have any thoughts of the fluid being contaminated or too old. To remove the rotors, just slide them off. If they heve never been off before, cut the thin retaining clip off the lug bolts to slide them off. These clips are an assembly line aid, and do not need to go back on when you reassemble the brakes. Just from my experience, if your front brakes are worn thin, check your rear brakes, mine were worn thinner than the fronts, almost to the point of metal to metal contact while the front could have gone several thousand miles more.

05-03-2007, 02:02 PM	#3
RedLiner Line Lock Wussy Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Martinsburg, WV Posts: 1,258	Re: Front Brakes Thanks for the help!! I got the rotors off and the new pads are pressed in the caliper, just waiting now to get the rotors back from being turned. I also went ahead and checked my rear brakes and they look fine. Any tips on how to break in the new pads?? __________________ 2001 DHG Bullitt -Patiently awaiting Coyote swap

05-04-2007, 07:57 PM	#4
ScreaminMachOne Missing Third! Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Sterling,Va Posts: 919	Re: Front Brakes Yo Ben I have wheel locks if you need them still __________________ 2004 Mach1-Sold Forged-D1 10.89@128mph

05-05-2007, 02:48 PM	#8
Charles236 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 1,150	Re: Front Brakes I never have left my wheel lock key on the lug, but that is only because I do like Hawk and put the bag on the console next to the shifter to remind me. Getting old and forgetful makes turning wrenches more challenging.

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