new car break in period

[ASH302]

myself and also sublime302 we both have new rides and was tryin to figure out what would be the right time on being able to get on it. i got told need to put between 500miles to 1000 miles. so if any one that knows the fi=or thing chime in, i can't member what i did on my mach after the new motor got put in i . well pleasa someone help out

ASh

[Zack]

NONE!

The engines are run at the factory to seat the rings. Go out and hammer it.

[st0ck Mach 1]

Originally Posted by Zack

NONE!

The engines are run at the factory to seat the rings. Go out and hammer it.

Thats what i have always understood, the rings are seated when its new. Me, I varied the driving for the first 500...granny then don garlits...granny then don garlits!!!! congrats on the new ride

[machgsxr]

I think i took mine out to the track the second week i owned it.

[shadowmaker]

Originally Posted by Zack

NONE!

The engines are run at the factory to seat the rings. Go out and hammer it.

You have 50k miles worth of warranty. If it blows up bc you hammer it, something is major wrong to start.

[TRMach1]

Modern engines don't need a break-in period Ash! When you feel the need, the need for speed, let R rip!!

[Mach828]

Stop wasting time and floor it!

[ASH302]

LOL well i see, lol i just want show the ride respect, i think i have PTSD from mach, worried something going to break, lol even when i test drove it i didn't even wromp on it but just alittle. i've been driving just really normal getting use to how the clutch feels and te 6speed and man does the stock shifter on the throw feel nice, so short, i'm curious as to what a short throw shift feels like, prob amazing

ASh

[ASH302]

i would rather ask than be sorry

ASh

[shadowmaker]

Originally Posted by txmach302

LOL well i see, lol i just want show the ride respect, i think i have PTSD from mach, worried something going to break, lol even when i test drove it i didn't even wromp on it but just alittle. i've been driving just really normal getting use to how the clutch feels and te 6speed and man does the stock shifter on the throw feel nice, so short, i'm curious as to what a short throw shift feels like, prob amazing

ASh

You disrespected the ride by not leaving the dealer lot in a huge cloud of tire smoke. (thats smoking in 4gears)
True story, a guy here in town bought the first GT500 at our dealership from the show room. As soon as the tires touched the pavement, he did a burn out all the way across the lot. Filled the showroom full of smoke. lol (had less than 100 miles on it)

Short throw is the best non power mod there is for any car.

[Tommy Z]

Learning guy, here. What exactly is 'seating rings'? I'm assuming we're talking about the rings that create the seal between the piston and cylinder walls?

[Sublimemach]

Thanks for postin Ash. Good post. good to hear. im getting home in a hurry tonight lol. i had a rent car 2013 v6. floored it everywhere. Its actually VERY quick for a v6. cant wait to see the power in the 5.0 when i get off of work

[DSG2003Mach1]

Get it up to temp and let it rip

[shadowmaker]

Originally Posted by Tommy Z

Learning guy, here. What exactly is 'seating rings'? I'm assuming we're talking about the rings that create the seal between the piston and cylinder walls?

yes.

[rich1]

Bad advise given here...
Read the owners manual it should say something.If it does then stick by what it says since the Dealer will if you blow it .It never hurts to break in anything thats expensive ,but it may if you dont !
I know that at a dealer I worked at a guy bought a Mustang . He hammered it leaving the lot the next week he was upset cuz the clutch was grabbing. The tech that tore it down said the clutch, pressue plate were both blue from heat. The clutch was fixed but the customer had to pay for the labor ,since it was not NORMAL wear. The Ford rep said it was the worst one he had ever seen.

[Tommy Z]

Originally Posted by shadowmaker

yes.

Ha ok, but what is actually happening in the seating process?

[CO Mack]

Originally Posted by rich1

Read the owners manual it should say something.If it does then stick by what it says since the Dealer will if you blow it .It never hurts to break in anything thats expensive ,but it may if you dont !
I know that at a dealer I worked at a guy bought a Mustang . He hammered it leaving the lot the next week he was upset cuz the clutch was grabbing. The tech that tore it down said the clutch, pressue plate were both blue from heat. The clutch was fixed but the customer had to pay for the labor ,since it was not NORMAL wear. The Ford rep said it was the worst one he had ever seen.

This.

Enjoy the new ride!

[ASH302]

Originally Posted by rich1

Bad advise given here...
Read the owners manual it should say something.If it does then stick by what it says since the Dealer will if you blow it .It never hurts to break in anything thats expensive ,but it may if you dont !
I know that at a dealer I worked at a guy bought a Mustang . He hammered it leaving the lot the next week he was upset cuz the clutch was grabbing. The tech that tore it down said the clutch, pressue plate were both blue from heat. The clutch was fixed but the customer had to pay for the labor ,since it was not NORMAL wear. The Ford rep said it was the worst one he had ever seen.

well for me i'm still going to drive normal till 500miles, i truly would feel better and then get into it harder and harder. this is just what i'm going to do
it will be there when i get to the 500 miles, i think the important thing is just getting to know the ride for now, this is for me

ASh

[rich1]

Most manuals state to drive normal for about 1,000 miles ...
Other things like brakes need breaking in too. If you dont take it easy on them the pads will glaze over from the heat ,or the rotors will warp. The brakes will not stop as well because of this . Any good mechanic can tell this and give you problems under warranty at the Dealers.

[Shook1db]

Originally Posted by rich1

Most manuals state to drive normal for about 1,000 miles ...
Other things like brakes need breaking in too. If you dont take it easy on them the pads will glaze over from the heat ,or the rotors will warp. The brakes will not stop as well because of this . Any good mechanic can tell this and give you problems under warranty at the Dealers.

Brakes are meant to be seated to the rotors by actually doing small stints of hard braking. . . Clutches need to be wore in, engines (off factory lines) do not. Gears do as well but idk if gears from the factory need to be like they do if you replace them (even though it's not that far anyways).

Congrats on the new car. Where are the

[ASH302]

Originally Posted by Shook1db

Brakes are meant to be seated to the rotors by actually doing small stints of hard braking. . . Clutches need to be wore in, engines (off factory lines) do not. Gears do as well but idk if gears from the factory need to be like they do if you replace them (even though it's not that far anyways).

Congrats on the new car. Where are the

http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/...d.php?t=125182

ASh

[wigsite]

Originally Posted by machgsxr

I think i took mine out to the track the second week i owned it.

Haha, I had my mach at the track with temp tags too. Found out the idiots at the dealership had filled the tires with 44#'s of air??? That was interesting on the 2-3 shift when it broke loose.

[TRMach1]

Originally Posted by rich1

Bad advise given here...
Read the owners manual it should say something.If it does then stick by what it says since the Dealer will if you blow it .It never hurts to break in anything thats expensive ,but it may if you dont !
I know that at a dealer I worked at a guy bought a Mustang . He hammered it leaving the lot the next week he was upset cuz the clutch was grabbing. The tech that tore it down said the clutch, pressue plate were both blue from heat. The clutch was fixed but the customer had to pay for the labor ,since it was not NORMAL wear. The Ford rep said it was the worst one he had ever seen.

Here's what the 2013 Mustang Owner's Manual says about break-in on page 201. Evidently, tires have become more critical than mechanicals nowadays. And since they don't define what "too fast" is, I don't see where anyone has given bad advise here.

Page 201 says:

"You need to break in new tires for approximately 300 miles (480 kilometers). During this time, your vehicle may exhibit some unique driving characteristics. Avoid driving too fast during the first 1000 miles (1600 kilometers). Vary your speed frequently and change up through the gears early. Do not labor the engine. Do not tow during the first 1000 miles (1600 kilometers)."

[ASH302]

i had a really good mech friend that i asked him about it. my first mustang was brand new i drove it normal for the first 500miles before i got on it, was a 2001 i traded it in with almost 150K idk if that had something do, the mach already had miles on it, so it was ready go. i figure 500miles isn't to far i'm alittle over 200 miles right now. i say which you want to drive your ride by all means drive it like you want. back to my good friend he said he done it both was and it truly didn't make a diff they both lasted long and did great, took the muscle car and didn't baby it, pretty much almost right to the track and the other ride he had baby it for a good ways and then started going into it. so he said he truly doesn't know, lol it really is my choice and like some of ya'll said the way they put em out these days its straight go from get go. the real reason i asked or started this thread is cuz someone else asked, i relayed what i was told i could do which is drive normal for first 500 miles and then get into it more and more and also DO NOT change the oil under 3000 miles, for me its givng me peace of mind if i just drive her normal and again if its your ride drive how you want you are payin for it

ASh

[iudelt89]

here is an article I found in popular mechanics a while back about new car break in. Just remember the ecu in modern cars (specifically high performance cars) will learn your driving habits. I've always heard to run it up and down through the rev range but not to really wail on it (power shifting, hard launches etc.), do a lot of mid range pulls, WOT is fine, then let the engine decel as well. This helps the ecu learn. Exercise the car hard throughout the rev range but don't absolutely flog it. I know you treat your cars well so that pony should do just fine.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...k-in-a-new-car