Panhard Bar Upper control arm removal

[NastyNate]

So i got a killer deal NEW on a panhard bar and torque arm and spring set up for my mach. I got the FLSFC installed last week and this week I want to install the panhard bar. It'll be a few weeks before I can install the torque arm because I have to get smogged and I have to put the stock pipe on and that would have to get modded because of the HD T/A ...yada yada ...

anyways I read somewhere about removing the driving side upper control arm when the panhard bar is installed when no TA is present. anyone have experience?

I have MM HD adjustable lowers and UPR(i think) adjustable uppers

[frijol79]

Well I have the panhard bar on my mach. Didn't remove it.

[ShakeMe]

From MM website......


Upper Control Arm Bushings
Whether or not your Mustang is equipped with a MM Panhard Bar, it is very important that the rubber upper control arm bushings be retained. This is one application where the compliance of a rubber bushing is a benefit. Retaining the rubber upper control arm bushings is a necessary compromise to achieve acceptable handling. See the Rear Lower Control Arm section here for more information about control arm bushings.

[Nekasrof]

Originally Posted by NastyNate

So i got a killer deal NEW on a panhard bar and torque arm and spring set up for my mach. I got the FLSFC installed last week and this week I want to install the panhard bar. It'll be a few weeks before I can install the torque arm because I have to get smogged and I have to put the stock pipe on and that would have to get modded because of the HD T/A ...yada yada ...

anyways I read somewhere about removing the driving side upper control arm when the panhard bar is installed when no TA is present. anyone have experience?

I have MM HD adjustable lowers and UPR(i think) adjustable uppers

I can't imagine you'd want to pull 1 side off. The diff will want to rotate to the side removed. Unless your Mach is an annomoly and only has 75hp.

And like said above, you'd really want to have factory LCAs with rubber bushings if you're adding a PHB. You're gonna have bind anyway until the TA is installed. Having poly in the UCAs will compound the bind.

[NastyNate]

Obviously I have A MM PH bar but the griggs website says you can remove one upper ...thats where I got the idea from. I dont know how different their setup it compared to MM.
From the research I did... some guys are running the MM PH with only the passenger side upper with poly bushing or spherical end as the rubber bushing are too soft and fail.

http://www.griggsracing.com/index.ph...4322_2045_3730

[ShakeMe]

Originally Posted by NastyNate

Obviously I have A MM PH bar but the griggs website says you can remove one upper ...thats where I got the idea from. I dont know how different their setup it compared to MM.
From the research I did... some guys are running the MM PH with only the passenger side upper with poly bushing or spherical end as the rubber bushing are too soft and fail.

http://www.griggsracing.com/index.ph...4322_2045_3730

Maybe if they followed the instructions and use both UCAS the bushings wouldn't fail. Mine didn't and it was months before I installed the TA to complete the rear. When in doubt follow the manufacturers recommendations.

[Nekasrof]

Not to be a bad guy here but I don't know anyone who would even think of using 1 UCA. So I'll have to disagree with Griggs completely on this one. Considering the UCA is off on an angle from the top of the diff, I'd stay far far away from that idea. Just wait until you get the TA on or just add the PHB if you're that impatient. It would be better with the rubber bushings though.

[NastyNate]

Shakeme LIke I Stated Griggs website says to REMOVE one upper control arm. As far as I know MM (which I have) says to keep both uppers with rubber bushing...(i can read really well) SO if you have them BOTH side by side what is the difference? if they are the same then why do they mfg say different thing? ....and this is the reason for my questions.
sorry If i dont believe what one person says....i ask question and come up with my OWN comprehensive decision!

Nekasrof
YOUR NOT THE BAD GUY ;-)
And that was my main concern because of the angle they come off the diff.
Ill email Griggs and see what they recommend and what their logic is behind it.

[Nekasrof]

I'm aware that the removal of 1 UCA was done years ago. Not sure how effective it was but i'm sure it cut down on bind to some degree. But with tire technology today, I'd be afraid of the single UCA and a high stress situation.
You can always try it and see.

[ShakeMe]

I just posted what MM says to do with their product(which you have). To settle any question about MM products call them. Their customer service was awesome answering all of my question.

[TRmachwon]

Search on Corral for PM3L (Poor Man's 3 Link). People have had good success with it, including BTM Autosport's CP autox car running like 315mm rcomps square. I was very tempted to try it but didn't want to risk failure without torque box reinforcement. For a few weeks it would be fine on the street. If anything it would probably be better on your torque boxes than running both uppers if your UPR arms are spherical at both ends.

[NastyNate]

Yeah I did find stuff on the PM3 after i finally figured out what they were referencing. It can be done with the griggs or MM panhard bar but NOT with the kenny brown bar! It seems to me that the problems with the PM3 is when to soft of a spring rate is being used accompanied with stock rubber bushing.
Anyways I got the panhard bar and springs install last weekend. i left both control arm is to see how it felt. Make the rear grip is AMAZING ! I REALLY need to upgrade the front now. I might pull an UCA this weekend and see how it feel but I also have to get car ready for smog so we will see.

[TRmachwon]

Originally Posted by NastyNate

Yeah I did find stuff on the PM3 after i finally figured out what they were referencing. It can be done with the griggs or MM panhard bar but NOT with the kenny brown bar! It seems to me that the problems with the PM3 is when to soft of a spring rate is being used accompanied with stock rubber bushing.
Anyways I got the panhard bar and springs install last weekend. i left both control arm is to see how it felt. Make the rear grip is AMAZING ! I REALLY need to upgrade the front now. I might pull an UCA this weekend and see how it feel but I also have to get car ready for smog so we will see.

Haha if you're AMAZED by the panhard bar just wait until you get the torque arm on

But yes with a PM3L setup you need stiffer rear springs just as you do with a torque arm because you no longer have a bindy bind rear suspension. I hope you got stiffer rear springs to go with your TA, right?

[NastyNate]

Yeah I got the MM 42TA5 springs 375-440 lbs spring rate I believe.
Honestly I think its the springs that helped more than the panhard bar. I might remove the bar and see if Im right.

[Mach! Schnell!]

NastyNate,


I'm thinking of getting the same rear springs.
How much did the MM 42TA5 rear springs lower your Mach?

Thanks

[NastyNate]

Honestly I dont have a clue. I have adjustable rear control arms. I was tired of scraping so I raised the car up about an inch when I put he springs in.
Im actually thinking about going with more spring rate in the rear after I get coil-overs up front