Lock-out, missed shifts - Mystery solved?

[TheWaterSkier]

For those who have installed the fiore adjuster...

I scoped out the job today after recieving the kit from LethalPerformance (Fiore adjuster and Steeda Quadrant). The Steeda piece comes with a sleeve for one side and a nylon washer for the other to position the quadrant correcty which is great. Looking under the dash, the two clips that need to be removed have been inserted from above (I'm sure the whole set of pedals was pre-assembled and then installed in the car). Getting them out looks to be a job for angled needle nose?

Inside the engine bay, I can't see how you could get a drill lined up to make the larger holes. I didn't remove the PCV as I was just scoping out the job, but visually, I can't see getting a drill in there straight. I did remove the driver's seat which was pretty easy. As for the comment about the studs and covering them, you can just thread another nut on the stud along with the one that came off and tighten them together and then remove the whole stud. No more back gouging.

Can someone explain the procedure (and tools) they used before I commit to the job please? I don't want to get half way through and realize I don't have the correct tool(s) to complete the job.

[JDraper]

Originally Posted by TheWaterSkier

For those who have installed the fiore adjuster...

I scoped out the job today after recieving the kit from LethalPerformance (Fiore adjuster and Steeda Quadrant). The Steeda piece comes with a sleeve for one side and a nylon washer for the other to position the quadrant correcty which is great. Looking under the dash, the two clips that need to be removed have been inserted from above (I'm sure the whole set of pedals was pre-assembled and then installed in the car). Getting them out looks to be a job for angled needle nose?

Inside the engine bay, I can't see how you could get a drill lined up to make the larger holes. I didn't remove the PCV as I was just scoping out the job, but visually, I can't see getting a drill in there straight. I did remove the driver's seat which was pretty easy. As for the comment about the studs and covering them, you can just thread another nut on the stud along with the one that came off and tighten them together and then remove the whole stud. No more back gouging.

Can someone explain the procedure (and tools) they used before I commit to the job please? I don't want to get half way through and realize I don't have the correct tool(s) to complete the job.

90° Pneumatic drill worked for me.

[TheWaterSkier]

Originally Posted by JDraper

90° Pneumatic drill worked for me.

Thanks. I don't have air tools, so I ordered a 90 degree attachment for my drill and some long reach angled needle nose (still cheaper than having someone do the job for me). Handy tools I can use elsewhere anyway

BTW, did you use the two factory holes only, or did you drill and use all 4?

[JDraper]

Originally Posted by TheWaterSkier

Thanks. I don't have air tools, so I ordered a 90 degree attachment for my drill and some long reach angled needle nose (still cheaper than having someone do the job for me). Handy tools I can use elsewhere anyway

BTW, did you use the two factory holes only, or did you drill and use all 4?

I used all four.

[TheWaterSkier]

Originally Posted by JDraper

I used all four.

Ok, armed with two 11" angle needle nose and a right angle drill attachment I got from Harbor Freight, I installed my Fiore firewall adjuster and Steeda quadrant (kit from LeathalPerformance.com).

Removed the seat first and backed the studs out so I had a smooth surface to lay on.

After trying to release the cable from the existing quadrant for a few minutes and realizing you need two hands in there to do it, I jacked the car up on jack stands and released the cable from the transmission end. I was then able to just pull the cable off the stock quadrant with one hand.

I think your right angle air drill has a smaller profile as I was only able to get to three holes, but I'm happy with that. After removing the PVC connection and zip tying the throttle cable out of the way, I drilled the three holes with the supplied drill and since I have a tap set, I tapped the three holes instead of using the screws to make the threads. This made things easier. I then started the firewall piece with the three screws but left them halfway out so I could screw the adjuster into it without hitting the valve cover. Once clear of the cover, I used a flexible screw driver shaft to tighten the three screws.

I broke the large plastic piece off the end of the clutch cable and then used side cutters to cut the remaining piece off so I could install the sleeve that came with the new adjuster. I then just let this assembly hang while I went after the quadrant replacement.

Quadrant removal. Remove the trim panel under the steering column, it gives you a bit more working room. There is not much room to work in there, so I was glad I ordered two 11" needle nose, one with a slight angle, one with about a 15 degree angle. I was able to pull the clips off with these (both clips were installed at the factory from the top down, so you have to grasp the clip and push it up away from you to get it out. The quadrant and spring came right off, but the pawl was a bit more problematic. I managed to get the spring off the clutch pedal and then finally off the end of the shaft (opposite end that the pawl finally slips off of).

Installing the Steeda piece was pretty easy. A thick bushing is supplied which positions the quadrant in line with the incoming cable, so you put the bushing on, then the quadrant, then a large nylon washer, then the clip. Getting the clips on from the bottom was easier then removing them though it still took some patience and effort to get it done.

I then put the cable back through the firewall and screwed the adjuster all the way in. Under the dash again, I easily hooked the cable on the new quadrant. Back under the car, I hooked the cable back up and re-installed the dust cover. In the engine compartment, I screwed the adjuster out a couple of turns pulling on the cable until I had just a small bit of play.

Cleaned up and took a drive. WOW! Before, I never seemed to be able to shift into third above about 6000 rpm, now it goes in every time. I'm VERY satisfied.

Thanks for all the tips in this thread and especially to JDraper for the links to MMs stuff as those directions and photos helped a lot.

[JDraper]

Glad you like it. I'm quite happy with how my setup works.

As for the drill, I used a 90° Campbell Hausfield air drill, which has a much lower profile than most 90° adapters.

[BokBok78]

Whats a better quadrant Fiore or Steeda?
Nevermind just ordered the Steeda and Fiore setup from Lethal Performance.
Great people, they have a discount code for forum's.
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