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09-30-2008, 03:00 PM | #1 |
Moose Magnet
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 357
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Ball Joint
Does anyone have the part # for the front right ball joint? Not sure if they are the same for each side. Mine is suddenly squealing like a pig.
Do you have to remove the lower control arm from the car to replace the ball joint? Don't think I want to get Steeda's ball joints as I don't want to have to buy the bumpsteer kit just for a new ball joint. Anyone know a good aftermarket ball joint that won't require other mods?
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04 Azure Blue Mach 1 K&N CAI, Steeda 2pt strut brace, Sport Springs, U&L Rear CA, & Tri-ax Shifter, SS Brakelines, X2 Balljoints and Adj Tie rods. Fiore Quadrant & MM CC Plates, HD Bilsteins, Roy's 1/2" spacer, XCal2, 17"x9" wheels, Bassani catted X, Magnaflow Catback RWHP: 285 @5100, FWTQ: 351@4300, FWHP 335@6100 |
09-30-2008, 03:04 PM | #2 |
Torque wins!
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 13,167
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Re: Ball Joint
It might be cheaper to get the Cobra front LCA's from Joe Charles.
Ford racing has them.
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The ORIGINAL Project R build thread is back ! 5.4 32V NA Streetable 404/387 26.56 MPG "I don't like repeat offenders, I like DEAD offenders" Ted Nugent "A big engine hardly working is more efficient than a little engine screaming its head off" Jay Leno |
09-30-2008, 05:21 PM | #3 |
Moose Magnet
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 357
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Re: Ball Joint
I thought we had the Cobra LCAs on our Machs.
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04 Azure Blue Mach 1 K&N CAI, Steeda 2pt strut brace, Sport Springs, U&L Rear CA, & Tri-ax Shifter, SS Brakelines, X2 Balljoints and Adj Tie rods. Fiore Quadrant & MM CC Plates, HD Bilsteins, Roy's 1/2" spacer, XCal2, 17"x9" wheels, Bassani catted X, Magnaflow Catback RWHP: 285 @5100, FWTQ: 351@4300, FWHP 335@6100 |
09-30-2008, 05:26 PM | #4 |
Torque wins!
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 13,167
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Re: Ball Joint
We do.
By the time you buy the X2's, you might be able to get 2 new arms complete with bushings and ball joints.
__________________
The ORIGINAL Project R build thread is back ! 5.4 32V NA Streetable 404/387 26.56 MPG "I don't like repeat offenders, I like DEAD offenders" Ted Nugent "A big engine hardly working is more efficient than a little engine screaming its head off" Jay Leno |
10-01-2008, 01:44 PM | #5 |
Moose Magnet
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 357
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Re: Ball Joint
Thanks. So the question is, do I have to remove the LCA to replace the ball joint? If yes, then I will just buy a new set of LCA's since I have to remove them anyway.
Do you have a link to this Joe Charles Racing store? He doesn't show up on Google.
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04 Azure Blue Mach 1 K&N CAI, Steeda 2pt strut brace, Sport Springs, U&L Rear CA, & Tri-ax Shifter, SS Brakelines, X2 Balljoints and Adj Tie rods. Fiore Quadrant & MM CC Plates, HD Bilsteins, Roy's 1/2" spacer, XCal2, 17"x9" wheels, Bassani catted X, Magnaflow Catback RWHP: 285 @5100, FWTQ: 351@4300, FWHP 335@6100 |
10-01-2008, 02:45 PM | #6 |
Torque wins!
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 13,167
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Re: Ball Joint
Send Joe a PM.
Member name is Itlrun. He can get Ford racing and Steeda and can probably do a cost comparison for you. You do not have to remove the arms to replace the ball joints. That is, if you have a ball joint press.
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The ORIGINAL Project R build thread is back ! 5.4 32V NA Streetable 404/387 26.56 MPG "I don't like repeat offenders, I like DEAD offenders" Ted Nugent "A big engine hardly working is more efficient than a little engine screaming its head off" Jay Leno |
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