Boost a pump?

[BADNBLUE]

Getting ready to install boost a pump and was wondering who else is running theirs on full time without the hobbs switch?

[Krashdavus]

When I installed my JMS boost-a-pump, I wired it to ground on the Hobbs switch by mistake, which resulted in it running consistently at a boosted voltage. I quickly mended that error.

It's very noisy when when it runs at full voltage. Given that there is no return line, and it's a dead-headed system, I would venture to guess that the lifespan of your pump will be greatly decreased.

I'd go with the Hobbs Switch. If you have a good booster (and pump), the fuel system should have no problem keeping up with fuel demand when needed.

Don't want to be left stranded with a toasted fuel pump.

[not a gt]

I don't have that. I have the dial that came with BAP and tuner set it at 30, it was my understanding that BAP takes up the slack when I am in boost, that Hobbs switch must be something seperate that doesn't come with the BAP, is this an add on?? My tuner never said anything about this item.

[BADNBLUE]

The hobbs switch is supposed to come with it. Its what senses the boost for the boost a pump to increase voltage to the pump or pumps as needed. A lot of people don't use them so you might not have one.

[TKat13]

I ran mine full time as well.

[not a gt]

Originally Posted by BADNBLUE

The hobbs switch is supposed to come with it. Its what senses the boost for the boost a pump to increase voltage to the pump or pumps as needed. A lot of people don't use them so you might not have one.

Oh that must have been what was in the little plastic bag I didn't use lol..had two terminals looked kinda like a sending unit..so no guess I am not running that. So am I wrong in thinking even though the BAP is "ON" full time, it isn't actually "BOOSTING" until the computer tell fuel pump I need more gas, fuel pump says to computer, tough s**t this is all I got, then BAP says stop crying both of you..here computer,here is the fuel you need. Sound right??
Is this bad for the BAP to be on full time??(He** isn't that what fuses are for, it will blow if it doesn't like it).

It's very noisy when when it runs at full voltage
I don't hear anything

the lifespan of your pump will be greatly decreased
When the car is running isn't the pump energized anyway?

I left the BAP wiring up to Kurgan the tuner so if I needed it I guess he would have put it in.

[BADNBLUE]

Im guessing kurgan is not a fan of using them. Basically The voltage of your pump increased at all times without the hobbs switch to tell it that it doesn't need to be. I personally will not run one because I would think if the hobbs switch fails you are gonna go lean.

[not a gt]

Originally Posted by BADNBLUE

Im guessing kurgan is not a fan of using them. Basically The voltage of your pump increased at all times without the hobbs switch to tell it that it doesn't need to be. I personally will not run one because I would think if the hobbs switch fails you are gonna go lean.

Now something he DID do was I saw in alot of installs where the dial switch is maxed out and taped over, Kurgan set mine on 30 and if you turn the dial you can actually see fuel pressure increasing. I am thinking that 30 is what the normal fuel psi is on a stock pump with no BAP, so yes BAP on but really not increasing voltage to the pump until needed by computer in the tune, so yes on full time but not straining. Does that sound right??

[BADNBLUE]

I believe the voltage is still increased at all times. That's why some fear it will damage or shorten the life of the pumps when it is ran this way.

[not a gt]

Originally Posted by BADNBLUE

I believe the voltage is still increased at all times. That's why some fear it will damage or shorten the life of the pumps when it is ran this way.

Good discussion, thanks. If the car was a daily driver I may worry about it, but since I MAY put 150 miles /month, not gonna sweat it.

[Explosive]

Gotta put mine in soon. Lidio is doing my tuning and made it clear to ONLY install pre FPDM and bypass the hobbs switch. He said hes used them for years and always install that meathod. Thats how mine will be.

[BADNBLUE]

Man im jelous. I wish I was closer to Lidio. He is the man! Kurgan to for that matter.

[not a gt]

Originally Posted by Explosive

Gotta put mine in soon. Lidio is doing my tuning and made it clear to ONLY install pre FPDM and bypass the hobbs switch. He said hes used them for years and always install that meathod. Thats how mine will be.

Good enough for me and yes, Kurgan is real good. He did 3 pulls and tune was done. I have had ZERO issues in drivability or at the track, he wired BAP same as above, sure knows more than me. You getting close Blue, if you are on the BAP, you can see the finish line

[musclemerc]

Full time on a KB BAP is the way to go.

[TKat13]

Originally Posted by BADNBLUE

I believe the voltage is still increased at all times. That's why some fear it will damage or shorten the life of the pumps when it is ran this way.

Mine is a daily and I have never had a pump issue running it this way.

Here is what KB told me: Once the vehicle is running take a volt meter and measure the voltage going in (12-14 volts) at the red fused wire, then measure the voltage going out of the BAP (15-17 volts) at the red non fused wire.

[JaybTorchedMach]

It wasn't my intention to do so initially, but found that my switch was bad the day I was tuning so we bypassed it to run full time. Been that way over a year now no problems.