DD/ drag/ auto cross

[Bmeagher]

Current suspension, MM coil overs 12" 250 lbs, MM c/c plates, MM front control arms, Steeda upper and lower rear control arms.
This winter I'm going with a UPR k member to cut some more weight., Donovan racing front bumper support, MM solid steering shaft, and MM bump steer kit, Baer front 6 piston upgrade 4701000

Now.... I'd like to upgrade the rear suspension, but which will suite what I do best?
1: Car has never been drag raced in over 3 years, but I'd like to when I get back to civilization.
2: I DD the car durning the short summer months
3: I do compete in auto cross, since there is no drag racing where I currently live


3 rear suspension upgrades opinions
1: Swarr bar
2: MM Panhard bar
3: or Anti-roll bar

Which would you suggest and why?

[lcaptmorg]

MM Panhard.

[Bmeagher]

S***... I mays we'll go all Maximum motorsports. I got quoted 1700 for MM k member, bump steer kit, Panhard bar, steering shaft, steering rack bushings and font sway bar relocation kit. I still should be able to lose a 100 pounds this year, even with tho's upgrades.
I'll try without the oil filter relocation kit, and the strut tower brace for now.

[lcaptmorg]

I have never been disappointed with any MM products.

In all honesty I cannot provide an opinion on the swarr bar. Looks cool but I have never installed or driven a car with one. I have done a few panhards and **** do they make a difference.

Anti roll obviously for drag racing. Turn corners fast with an anti roll and you will see your life flash in front of you.

[Bmeagher]

Originally Posted by lcaptmorg

I have never been disappointed with any MM products.

In all honesty I cannot provide an opinion on the swarr bar. Looks cool but I have never installed or driven a car with one. I have done a few panhards and **** do they make a difference.

Anti roll obviously for drag racing. Turn corners fast with an anti roll and you will see your life flash in front of you.

After the Panhard bar, k member, and the rest of the front stuff.... I can upgrade to a torque arm down the road.

[Explosive]

Originally Posted by lcaptmorg

Turn corners fast with an anti roll and you will see your life flash in front of you.

I currently have nothing out back no sway bar or anything, and ive pushed it through some twisties pretty hard. Couldnt see ARB being any worse ?

[TRmachwon]

You don't need the oil filter relocation kit with the MM K member. I bought one and found out I don't need it when I went to do the install.

MM K>UPR by far

Skip the brake upgrades

If you want the car to actually work well for autox you need to go with a PHB/TA or Steeda 5 link setup. A PHB with the Steeda uppers (spherical? poly? either way, bad) will be a bind filled snap oversteering mess. I'd suggest getting the full PHB/TA setup before the K member.

Originally Posted by Explosive

I currently have nothing out back no sway bar or anything, and ive pushed it through some twisties pretty hard. Couldnt see ARB being any worse ?

An ARB is basically a giant pipe welded between your frame rails which then connects to your axle housing with some spherical endlinks. Your rear roll stiffness is ridiculous and it would be an unpredictable mess in turns. See here for pics:

http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/kits/arb3.htm

[Bmeagher]

Originally Posted by TRmachwon

You don't need the oil filter relocation kit with the MM K member. I bought one and found out I don't need it when I went to do the install.

MM K>UPR by far

Skip the brake upgrades

If you want the car to actually work well for autox you need to go with a PHB/TA or Steeda 5 link setup. A PHB with the Steeda uppers (spherical? poly? either way, bad) will be a bind filled snap oversteering mess. I'd suggest getting the full PHB/TA setup before the K member.

An ARB is basically a giant pipe welded between your frame rails which then connects to your axle housing with some spherical endlinks. Your rear roll stiffness is ridiculous and it would be an unpredictable mess in turns. See here for pics:

http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/kits/arb3.htm

I already have the big 6 piston Baer kit, it's going on either way now.
I ordered mm k member, steering shaft, panhard bar, bump steer kit and solid rack bushings. The panhard bar corrects the over steer.

Read the info mm has, http://www.maximummotorsports.com/te...p_panhard.aspx

[TRmachwon]

Originally Posted by Bmeagher

The panhard bar corrects the over steer.

Read the info mm has, http://www.maximummotorsports.com/te...p_panhard.aspx

"If the ability of the upper control arms to change their effective length is hindered by a noncompliant bushing material, the suspension will bind up, and not move freely. The resulting restriction in the ability of the rear suspension to freely articulate will cause poor handling; the car will have a tendency to oversteer, and it may do so in a sudden and unpredictable manner."

Did you order A arms as well? You can't run the stockers with the MM K.

[Bmeagher]

Originally Posted by TRmachwon

"If the ability of the upper control arms to change their effective length is hindered by a noncompliant bushing material, the suspension will bind up, and not move freely. The resulting restriction in the ability of the rear suspension to freely articulate will cause poor handling; the car will have a tendency to oversteer, and it may do so in a sudden and unpredictable manner."

Did you order A arms as well? You can't run the stockers with the MM K.

I installed front coil overs and the control arms last winter.

The next logical step after the installation of the MM Panhard Bar is the installation of a MM Torque-arm. Upon installation of the MM Torque-arm the rear upper control arms are be completely removed. This solves the bushing deflection problem, and finally removes the last source of binding in the rear suspension

So with that said, I'll try without the torque-arm for the summer.
The newer s197 has a Panhard bar... But with only a 3 link.

[mikeracing]

Originally Posted by Bmeagher

Current suspension, MM coil overs 12" 250 lbs, MM c/c plates, MM front control arms, Steeda upper and lower rear control arms.
This winter I'm going with a UPR k member to cut some more weight., Donovan racing front bumper support, MM solid steering shaft, and MM bump steer kit, Baer front 6 piston upgrade 4701000

Now.... I'd like to upgrade the rear suspension, but which will suite what I do best?
1: Car has never been drag raced in over 3 years, but I'd like to when I get back to civilization.
2: I DD the car durning the short summer months
3: I do compete in auto cross, since there is no drag racing where I currently live


3 rear suspension upgrades opinions
1: Swarr bar
2: MM Panhard bar
3: or Anti-roll bar

Which would you suggest and why?

TIRES ..... TIRES ...... Tires.....
Tires will give you the best bang for the buck on upgrades to decress your lap times

then race brake pads depending on course length ( since now you will be able to carry more speed out of the corners and brake later and harder you will soon cook street pads) also remove the brake dust shields cheap and will help the brake cooling.

more front spring rate since now with better brake pads, braking later, and carrying more speed you are going to grind the inner fender wells to he!! (just ask me how i know)

then I would say the swaybars, k member and then a rear suspension of some sort either steeda mm or who ever.

In my opinion
also things to consider is a new set of clutches for the rearend.

[Bmeagher]

Originally Posted by mikeracing

TIRES ..... TIRES ...... Tires.....
Tires will give you the best bang for the buck on upgrades to decress your lap times

then race brake pads depending on course length ( since now you will be able to carry more speed out of the corners and brake later and harder you will soon cook street pads) also remove the brake dust shields cheap and will help the brake cooling.

more front spring rate since now with better brake pads, braking later, and carrying more speed you are going to grind the inner fender wells to he!! (just ask me how i know)

then I would say the swaybars, k member and then a rear suspension of some sort either steeda mm or who ever.

In my opinion
also things to consider is a new set of clutches for the rearend.

So I have a spare set of of 4 17x8 rims, was thinking about picking up a set of dunlop direzza zii. I already have the ford racing clutch kit for the rear, plan on installing them the same time I put my mach 1 moan plate back on the diff.

I'll be installing new ftbr light weight rotors at the same time as the baer kit.

[mikeracing]

I would recommend toyo RA1 tires they are a great tire i have run them on the street and the track in both dry and wet .

but would also say if you can get a set of 17x9 rims and going with 275x40-17 tires

if you have a trailer or a way to get the tires to the track then a Hoosier A6 or BFg (i forgot the dot slick name)

a slick is gonna be your best bet but shouldnt be driven to the track on and can't really run them in the rain


http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....7RA1&tab=Sizes

[Bmeagher]

Originally Posted by mikeracing

I would recommend toyo RA1 tires they are a great tire i have run them on the street and the track in both dry and wet .

but would also say if you can get a set of 17x9 rims and going with 275x40-17 tires

if you have a trailer or a way to get the tires to the track then a Hoosier A6 or BFg (i forgot the dot slick name)

a slick is gonna be your best bet but shouldnt be driven to the track on and can't really run them in the rain


http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....7RA1&tab=Sizes

The fastest times in the auto cross is 30 seconds. I might get in second gear only 5-8 seconds of the course we ran last year. Plus it might only get into the low 90's tops. It looks like to me the r6, a6, rr tires need a lot of heat to work well.

Check it out. http://youtu.be/kASM04zuHlo

[Bmeagher]

Here's a quick video.

http://youtu.be/NrqZoqlwvKk

[mikeracing]

the a6 tires are for autocross and require much less heat