Rebuilt Engine - 2003-04 Mach 1 Registry Owners Club

Red_Stang · 06-28-2009, 10:57 PM

Just got done dropping a rebuilt engine in the mach. Just wondering how much i should drive it befoer i can start having some real fun in it? i was thinkin a couple thousand miles?

wcjr · 06-28-2009, 11:08 PM

details on build, just out of curiosity...

Red_Stang · 06-28-2009, 11:23 PM

forged aluminum pistons replaced rod bearings, which is what i messed up in the first place. also replaced cam bearings and all the other basics like oil pump, water pump changed all the gaskets and seals also idk why i got the urge to change the timing chain while i was at it? i guess i just went nuts on it lol

Red_Stang · 06-28-2009, 11:30 PM

also i went with a dual friction centerforce clutch and decided to keep the old flywheel just had it cut

nastynate_03 · 06-28-2009, 11:49 PM

they told me to beat on mine from the get go

but every builder has their own opinion. mmr said 1000 miles??? ask m1m hell set you straight on how to help seal the valves and what not. thanks

nate

Red_Stang · 06-29-2009, 12:13 AM

i was also told not to use a full synthetic right away so i went wih motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20 to start off then after the first change can i go with a full synthetic? or should i want a few oil changes?

st0ck Mach 1 · 06-29-2009, 04:01 AM

do a search on "break in". me...mine is going straight to the dyno for some pulls, easy at first then poundin on it.

Scott McClure · 06-29-2009, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red_Stang

i was also told not to use a full synthetic right away so i went wih motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20 to start off then after the first change can i go with a full synthetic? or should i want a few oil changes?

That was a big mistake. When breaking in a new motor you never want to use any kind of synthetic or synthetic blend. Mineral oil for 500 miles would be a better decision. And I beat on mine from the get go.

Catman · 06-29-2009, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nastynate_03

they told me to beat on mine from the get go

but every builder has their own opinion. mmr said 1000 miles??? ask m1m hell set you straight on how to help seal the valves and what not. thanks

nate

JPC, in Maryland, pulled my car apart and put it back together. I asked Justin (owner/racer) what the break in was? He just smiled a bit then told me it was already broken in and it's good to go. They did a couple of oil changes, threw it on the dyno, did some data logging when they test drove it a bunch etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott McClure

That was a big mistake. When breaking in a new motor you never want to use any kind of synthetic or synthetic blend. Mineral oil for 500 miles would be a better decision. And I beat on mine from the get go.

My shop put regular 5w30 oil in it now and later on I could go full synthetics if I wanted.

Furinox · 06-29-2009, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott McClure

That was a big mistake. When breaking in a new motor you never want to use any kind of synthetic or synthetic blend. Mineral oil for 500 miles would be a better decision. And I beat on mine from the get go.

+1

......

White04Mach · 06-29-2009, 03:41 PM

As far as break in is concerned I've been told to take it easy for about 50 miles or so, then run it how your going to run it.

4-v mach · 06-29-2009, 11:14 PM

These were the instructions given to me by Al Papitto (which I'll actually get to use starting tomorrow!!!):

Leave spark plugs out, unplug crank sensor, turn key and let flywheel spin the crank to give oil pressure.

Install plugs and sensor, run motor for 15-30 minutes, 2000 rpm or so.

Dump oil and change filter.

Fill and start again. Drive for 500 miles or so. Dump oil and filter again.

Use Valvoline 10w30 during break-in.

rich1 · 06-29-2009, 11:28 PM

Its also a good idea to pour 2 qts in thru the oil filter adapter 1st then install the filter then add the rest normally.

BTW breaking in a Race engine is different than a Street engine . The race engine will be run hard and torn down ,,the Street car should be broken in at least 1000 miles unless Dyno time was used.

tmhutch · 06-30-2009, 04:25 AM

Wow, so many opinions. You need to run it hard right from the get go. The key to properly breaking in a new engine is cylinder pressure. Dont bang gears hard but do a lot of full throttle runs with some deceleration from a mid to high RPM as well. Running it hard at WOT and high RPM builds pressure in the cylinder and forces the piston rings into the walls of the cylinders creating a better seal in the process. It's important to do this within the first few miles of running because that is the key break in time. 10 -15 hp (more in some cases) difference and the rings will retain a good seat longer (years).

And drain that blend. Get some dino oil.

st0ck Mach 1 · 07-03-2009, 01:30 PM

checkout mototuneusa.com expains things really well...go from there
+1 mineral oil then full synthetic

06-28-2009, 10:57 PM	#1
Red_Stang Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 35	Rebuilt Engine Just got done dropping a rebuilt engine in the mach. Just wondering how much i should drive it befoer i can start having some real fun in it? i was thinkin a couple thousand miles?

06-28-2009, 11:08 PM	#2
wcjr Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Kentucky Posts: 518	Re: Rebuilt Engine details on build, just out of curiosity...

06-28-2009, 11:23 PM	#3
Red_Stang Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 35	Re: Rebuilt Engine forged aluminum pistons replaced rod bearings, which is what i messed up in the first place. also replaced cam bearings and all the other basics like oil pump, water pump changed all the gaskets and seals also idk why i got the urge to change the timing chain while i was at it? i guess i just went nuts on it lol

06-28-2009, 11:30 PM	#4
Red_Stang Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 35	Re: Rebuilt Engine also i went with a dual friction centerforce clutch and decided to keep the old flywheel just had it cut

06-28-2009, 11:49 PM	#5
nastynate_03 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: andrews,texas Posts: 340	Re: Rebuilt Engine they told me to beat on mine from the get go but every builder has their own opinion. mmr said 1000 miles??? ask m1m hell set you straight on how to help seal the valves and what not. thanks nate __________________ 03 DSG MACH -HPP 5.0 stoker (wap block) -stage3ported heads&intake -stainless steel valves -comp stage 2 cams -LT's & o/r x-pipe -SLP lm1's -ati dampner -billet gears -jlt cai -mezierre e/wp -php intake spacer -accufab t/b -sct 2 custom tuning -hp twin 57mm turbos on the way!!! return style fuel system

06-29-2009, 12:13 AM	#6
Red_Stang Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 35	Re: Rebuilt Engine i was also told not to use a full synthetic right away so i went wih motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20 to start off then after the first change can i go with a full synthetic? or should i want a few oil changes?

06-29-2009, 04:01 AM	#7
st0ck Mach 1 not for long Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: santa rosa beach fl Posts: 830	Re: Rebuilt Engine do a search on "break in". me...mine is going straight to the dyno for some pulls, easy at first then poundin on it. __________________ BB/S 324 kooks sully accufab cams heads valves bs3 ls1coils sully rails aeromotive regulator Weldon pump 8gal cell batt in trunk tko500(faceplated) spool upr k foxbody spindles metco upper an lowers 502rwhp.

06-29-2009, 03:41 PM	#11
White04Mach Stab n' Steer! Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Carey, Ohio Posts: 1,137	Re: Rebuilt Engine As far as break in is concerned I've been told to take it easy for about 50 miles or so, then run it how your going to run it. __________________ 2004 White Mach 1, 5 Speed, IUP 18k miles Sold 01/10/15 Ford C springs, MM Adjustable lower control arms, DD Mach rims, Honeycomb panel, sequential turn signals, modded Bullitt skirts, wingless decklid, Cobra mirrors, Flowmaster 40's, Fiore quadrant and firewall adjuster, 4.10's, Shelby diff cover, MGW shifter, Raptor shift light.

06-29-2009, 11:14 PM	#12
4-v mach Sold & Parting Out Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Palm Beach Gardens, FL Posts: 1,164	Re: Rebuilt Engine These were the instructions given to me by Al Papitto (which I'll actually get to use starting tomorrow!!!): Leave spark plugs out, unplug crank sensor, turn key and let flywheel spin the crank to give oil pressure. Install plugs and sensor, run motor for 15-30 minutes, 2000 rpm or so. Dump oil and change filter. Fill and start again. Drive for 500 miles or so. Dump oil and filter again. Use Valvoline 10w30 during break-in. __________________ 04 AB 5sp IUP Every Bolt-On Imaginable Full Tubular Drag Suspension Moser 35-Spline, Spool, C-Elim's, 4.88's, etc. Zex 100 Shot SCT by Justin @ VMP Tuning 15x10 Beadlock & 17x4.5 Aluma-Star 2.0's M/T 28x10.5 ET Drags Massive Diet = 2950 lbs stock: 408hp, 438tq on 100 shot: 11.03 @ 127.3 Aluma-Star's 4 SALE Best Offer Al Papitto built ~11.5:1, .020 over Teksid, custom Comp cams, custom CP domed pistons, ported heads/intake by Kris Starnes 513hp, 410tq on 100 shot: 10.79 @ 133.1

06-29-2009, 11:28 PM	#13
rich1 AUTOMACHTIC Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: RTP/ N.C. Posts: 4,813	Re: Rebuilt Engine Its also a good idea to pour 2 qts in thru the oil filter adapter 1st then install the filter then add the rest normally.BTW breaking in a Race engine is different than a Street engine . The race engine will be run hard and torn down ,,the Street car should be broken in at least 1000 miles unless Dyno time was used. __________________ UPGRADES...Tokico Illuminas Borla SS Catback , Steeda Underdrives , Strut Brace , HPM Lower K Brace , L /C Arms , U /C Arms , HPM PanHard Bar, K&N FRPK 2, GOODYEAR GT1 , MRT- H-Pipe , JLT VaporTraps , SLP-12'" Tips! , FRPP Shorty 1 5/8 Headers , Brembo D/S & PBR D/S Rotors ,FRPP Alum.DS ,Roys 3/8 Spacer , SVT Focus 255 pump SCTsw Chip PRO-DYNOjet NA 300.01hp /315tq (Auto) ,Innovate W/B ,Compucar Wet Kit (90jet) + Heater and E Gauge * 360 hp/385tq 12.5 -1/4 @112

06-30-2009, 04:25 AM	#14
tmhutch 4v>3v>2v Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Pacific Northwest Posts: 727	Re: Rebuilt Engine Wow, so many opinions. You need to run it hard right from the get go. The key to properly breaking in a new engine is cylinder pressure. Dont bang gears hard but do a lot of full throttle runs with some deceleration from a mid to high RPM as well. Running it hard at WOT and high RPM builds pressure in the cylinder and forces the piston rings into the walls of the cylinders creating a better seal in the process. It's important to do this within the first few miles of running because that is the key break in time. 10 -15 hp (more in some cases) difference and the rings will retain a good seat longer (years). And drain that blend. Get some dino oil.

07-03-2009, 01:30 PM	#15
st0ck Mach 1 not for long Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: santa rosa beach fl Posts: 830	Re: Rebuilt Engine checkout mototuneusa.com expains things really well...go from there +1 mineral oil then full synthetic __________________ BB/S 324 kooks sully accufab cams heads valves bs3 ls1coils sully rails aeromotive regulator Weldon pump 8gal cell batt in trunk tko500(faceplated) spool upr k foxbody spindles metco upper an lowers 502rwhp.

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