Alternator ideas.

[wutang61]

Well the alternator is shot yet again on my car, and this time it blew the battery up with it. What are you guys using for a QUALITY replacement? Preferably brand new and able to survive 7k rpms. Second time Ive blown apart a Start-N-Charge. Before anyone asks, using a complete 100% factory pulley setup. RPM is Ford spec. (for cobras).

[canadianmach1]

What about adding a bigger pulley to slow it down ?

[wutang61]

Originally Posted by canadianmach1

What about adding a bigger pulley to slow it down ?

I've been looking into that,Just it seems strange i need to underdrive an oem setup to keep it together.

[canadianmach1]

I have never had a problem with the oem one, what one are you using

[not a gt]

I had mine done by a shop to make it a 200A, $125, no issues.

[wutang61]

Just tore it off and took it to a local place. They were pretty impressed with the carnage. The rotor absolutely exploded. Should know more next week once all the parts are in.

[wutang61]

Originally Posted by canadianmach1

I have never had a problem with the oem one, what one are you using

A start-n-charge. He's a member over on SVT. He was pretty big back in 2008 when I originally bought the unit. Keep in mind my car has had 4K miles added to the clock since then.

[matthayn]

Heat plays a big factor in the life of the alternators IMO. Try datalogging your voltage output on a sunny 100* day vs 50* night and see the difference. If you can, route some air in towards that alternator somehow when you get a new one in, it might help make the next one last a little longer.

[DSG2003Mach1]

1) the bigger alternator pulley might be a bad idea if you spend much time in traffic/low rpms, may not get enough output.

a stock output alternator operating in the stock rpm range shouldnt be a problem but I was told by Mechman that we're in a tough spot with our alternators. When upping the output its a fine line to walk to get enough output at idle and not be way overspun at our redline.

[wutang61]

Originally Posted by matthayn

Heat plays a big factor in the life of the alternators IMO. Try datalogging your voltage output on a sunny 100* day vs 50* night and see the difference. If you can, route some air in towards that alternator somehow when you get a new one in, it might help make the next one last a little longer.

being in Florida, the under hood temps I'm sure are insanity. The voltage output has been been right on the money. I shifted into second, hit about 6700 and heard an audible pop and that's when crap went haywire. Trying to route air to that alternator would be a challenge. The engine bay on my car is pretty much stuffed. Only thing I could really do is relocate the battery to open up some space around the unit.

Originally Posted by DSG2003Mach1

1) the bigger alternator pulley might be a bad idea if you spend much time in traffic/low rpms, may not get enough output.

a stock output alternator operating in the stock rpm range shouldnt be a problem but I was told by Mechman that we're in a tough spot with our alternators. When upping the output its a fine line to walk to get enough output at idle and not be way overspun at our redline.

That's why I'd prefer not to underdrive the unit. It's been turned up a little to 160amps as it sits. I'm sure that might have something to do with heat production. I'm confidant that a solution exists within the unit itself. It was dropped off with the directions of surviving 7,000 rpm and bulletproof.

When I had mentioned a possible larger pulley to combat the issue they were pretty much against it. Assured me that with an oem drive setup the issue is internal and can and will be handled.



On a side note my optima survived the 20v shock. So I'm already 200 bucks better off then I thought.

[lcaptmorg]

I recently replace my stocker with a DB Electrical 200amp unit. The original unit on the car had a metco UD pulley and it lasted at 7k+rpm for quite some time. The DB unit seems to be working well so far and DB tells me it should not be a problem. They come with an over driven clutch style pulley but I removed that and put the metco pulley on.

[wutang61]

Originally Posted by lcaptmorg

I recently replace my stocker with a DB Electrical 200amp unit. The original unit on the car had a metco UD pulley and it lasted at 7k+rpm for quite some time. The DB unit seems to be working well so far and DB tells me it should not be a problem. They come with an over driven clutch style pulley but I removed that and put the metco pulley on.

I ended up reusing the stock pulley. the shop was pretty convinced with the rpm its turning it shouldn't have any problem surviving,
which i tend to agree with.

I got mine back and back on the mach. Had them replace everything besides the case and pulley. was assured that they don't make better parts then whats in it now. They de-tuned the unit to 140 for better idle charging. which is fine by me. I guess time will tell with this one.

I ended up covering the parts for a whopping 50 bucks. didn't charge me labor as it was under warranty from the last time.

[4a7191a]

I've got a march under drive pulley on my car. Crank only . and she has seen 7k+ rpms many of times and no problems here.

[noodle9400]

Not to hijack the ops post and avoid a similar post....

What options are recommended for an alternator?? I've done some research and found out that the 4.6's alternator tends to have a failed diode that for some reasons causes the cam position sensor code to pop when its actually the alternator causing the problem. I also have fully upgraded sound system in the car and my battery seems to die every week. Already replaced the battery twice and I seem to have to jump start my car at least once a week. So what alternator options does everyone recommend?

UPDATE.... I got my car started today and the output of my alternator is 17.64. Needless to say i need a new one.