Is my last resort a aftermarket radiator?

[626socalstang]

I'm having a cooling issue I have come to the conclusion that because the procharger intercooler blocks almost half of the radiator (A/C has been deleted.) that it's blocking a lot of air and thinking that a bigger radiator will to the trick..Am I right? (FYI T-stat has been gutted) What are your thoughts?

Thinking Mishimoto radiator..

[626socalstang]

car runs 220-226

[SuperMach1]

How well will a bigger radiator fit? I think there would be clearance issues especially with the procharger. I might be wrong.

[DSG2003Mach1]

I've got the same inter cooler, still have ac and though I haven't sat in rush hour or anything I haven't gone over 210. Sure the high speed setting in the fan is working?

Also I believe no thermostat can let water go through the radiator too quickly and it doesn't cool down enough. Unless it's clogged or something a bigger radiator will just delay how long it takes to get hot

[TKat13]

I have a large intercooler for my turbo setup and I also have a larger radiator, a fluidyne unit. Great looking radiator but it did not solve a single cooling issue, all it did was increase the time before everything was heat soaked. I still have not solved my cooling issues when in stop-go traffic in 100+ days with AC on. At the moment, I just sweat it out and temps stay around 210. AC on, just climbs until I start rolling.

I only say this because I feel that it would be very likely that you would be wasting your money and then spending more to continue to find a solution.

Let me help you by telling you what I have done and the results.
1. radiator - runs hot.
2. put in a ford racing water pump in place of the auto zone unit, no change.
3. Put in a 160 thermostat - added time for heat soak but did nothing for peak temp.
4. put a GT lower radiator hose and an inline thermostat in the upper hose, capped off the line from the crossover tube to the old thermostat housing - dropped 10 degrees, thermostat was a 170.
5. As a test, I removed the rubber gasket around the shaker and drove around a few days, this dropped temps by another 10 degrees by extracting under hood heat.

Finally, my next plan is dual 12" fans in a custom radiator fan shroud. I just purchased the aluminum via Amazon, roughly 20.00 shipped. The shroud will extend edge to edge, basically utilizing the entire surface of the radiator. The shroud will also have flow-through holes with rubber flaps, this reduces resistance of air flow at highway speeds but maintains efficiency while stopped.

The fans are 3300cfm each and of course will need a dual fan controller.

Once I complete this I will openly share my results and build, if you beat me to it, please let me know as well. The fans are about 150 each, 20 for the aluminum, 20 for the tool to cut the aluminum, 150 for the dual fan controller. Not a cheap solution. But with the behavior I am seeing, it is purely airflow, not a problem with the thermostat or radiator.

[TKat13]

If interested in my 'idea' above here are the parts I am currently considering.

Perma-Cool Fan 2 of them.

Fan Controller, There are tons out there but this one seems to be a good deal.

Here is the link to the aluminum I picked up at amazon. Aluminum sheet
It is 21.21 with 12.00 shipping, I forgot about the shipping cost. Still, a good deal.

Here is the fan shroud idea I am after:
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...?__federated=1

[DSG2003Mach1]

OP are you procharged or turbo?

were you having this temp problem before gutting the Tstat housing?

With Tstat housing gutted, are you still running the bypass hose from the crossover down to the thermostat assembly?

[01yellerCobra]

What kind of shape is your radiator in? I have the stock radiator, stock t-stat temp, and still have my A/C. I've driven in Vegas and Az with the A/C and my temps stay around 200. I dropped the fan temps around 10 degrees from stock

[ab_mach1]

Aside from making sure the system is burped properly, I think you need to remove heat quicker from the radiator, rather than having more capacity. It will still get up to that temp with more capacity, it will just take a little longer to get there. Same when peeps change to a cooler T-stat - same thing, it will just take a bit longer to get there. It will also take longer for the engine to get up to good operating temps and that could be bad if you don't let your oil get hot enough to flow everywhere.

I'm not sure what available, but I would look into a fan system that moves more CFM. Maybe they make a larger diameter AND higher CFM setup..? Maybe a 3 speed setup that could be hardwired in with a seperate temp module for when your setting in traffic..?

[DSG2003Mach1]

we need more info from the OP really.

1) if the fan isnt kicking on to high speed that could explain it and he needs a new fan, the resistor/temp unit for the fan is bad, something in the CCRM etc...

2) if it wasnt doing this before gutting the thermostat housing I would try putting it back, again being wide open water might be going through the radiator too quickly to get cooled down

3) If he gutted the thermostat housing but the bypass hose is still in place then hot coolant straight out of the motor is skipping the radiator and going back into the motor (the thermostat prevents this when it opens)

IMHO, if its just a procharged car something is wrong, its not that the system is insufficient

[01yellerCobra]

Originally Posted by DSG2003Mach1

IMHO, if its just a procharged car something is wrong, its not that the system is insufficient

+1

I don't have any issues with my intercooler in front of the stock radiator.

[626socalstang]

This is a procharged car (D1) with the stock radiator. The fan was checked and works properly. There are no coolant hose changes.. Before the gutting of the T-stat it was running 230-236. Radiator condition seems fine, thinking maybe theres a blockage inside or something, the motor had over 100K miles when I bought it. Then shortly after I had the motor bored/stroked with forged internals.

[iamkevin7]

I had a Durango with 225k on it. It ran hella hot sitting with the air on and cool as a cucumber going 60 down the road
I changed water pump and it did not help. I bought a new radiator even though the stock one looked fine. I hacked the old one open and only the top 6 tubes were open. The tubes were wide but very thin in height and it got stopped up even though the coolant was clear of apparent sediment.

[01yellerCobra]

Do radiator shops clean out the tubes anymore? It might be worth having it checked out. Or see if you can find a cheap replacement. Mine has 111K on it, but it's been flushed quite a bit the last few years. Something else, when is it getting hot? When you're on the freeway or when you're in traffic?

[626socalstang]

Originally Posted by 01yellerCobra

Do radiator shops clean out the tubes anymore? It might be worth having it checked out. Or see if you can find a cheap replacement. Mine has 111K on it, but it's been flushed quite a bit the last few years. Something else, when is it getting hot? When you're on the freeway or when you're in traffic?

All of the above.

[01yellerCobra]

My guess is its the radiator. I'd pull it and have it inspected.

[DSG2003Mach1]

Originally Posted by 01yellerCobra

My guess is its the radiator. I'd pull it and have it inspected.

I think Id agree...call around and see what local shops charge to check it out and fix if if thats the issue and compare to the price of a new stock style replacement.

as its been mentioned before, if you dont do things to direct more air to the radiator, a larger radiator wont do anything but buy you time until you hit high temps. Dont forget the fitment and quality issues too

[626socalstang]

I forgot to mention the car runs on E85 only...I'm guessing it burns hotter than 91 as well?

[DSG2003Mach1]

E85 runs cooler, part of its detonation resistance so far as I know

[626socalstang]

^Roger... Looks like Ill be taking the radiator out to get inspected tomorrow night...It's too **** hot!

[311-420]

+1 for radiator. Sounds exactly like the issue my mom's 01 was having a couple years ago. Sitting still it would get hot but as soon as it got into motion it would cool off. The fan just couldn't keep up all by itself with the clogged radiator.

[Vndcatr]

Yea id pull the radiator and have it flushed, pressure tested and rotted out if its good.

[hecdel40]

Head cooling mod when I first install my supercharger my car use to run hot and that was with electric water pump after the head cooling mod she runs at the right temperature the only problem is that takes a long time to get to running temperture.

[mikeracing]

sorry i didnt read every single post but what T stat are you running

and you cant gut a t stat on or else you will have problems

if you dont have the correct bottom on the t stat all it will do is keep circulating around the engine thus just cooking the engine.

http://reischeperformance.com/index.html#anchor

also a higher flow thermastat may help.

I went through 5 different part stores and the thermostats that they kept pulling out of the boxes were the wrong ones for a mach 1.

[vertigyn]

I thought I was the only one having this problem...guess not!

I have an intercooled 2.1 KB kit, gutted T-stat housing (bypass blocked off), mezier elctric water pump, stock radiator. The car cruises and operates at 180-200 as long as I'm moving and just taking it easy. If I get on the car or sit in traffic, especially with a/c, it runs 230-240 (that's when I let it sit and cool down or turn on the heat).

I have had 3 performance shops look at the issue...and no change in results - just several system burps, fluid changes, a gutted t-stat which has been the best "delay" in impact so far.

Many folks have suggested a larger radiator, but like TKat has experienced, I'm not sure that will solve anything...other than a thinner wallet.