blower on st3 cams

[Iceman]

what would happen to the power curve if IF i were to put a p1 procharger on? would peak power move up on the rpm range or stay about the same? could the stock short block handle a blower with the cams?

[Iceman]

Bueller Bueller?????????????

[cmb570]

Here the short sweet answer. With a good tune your motor should handle 450rwhp anything more, your on borrowed time

[Iceman]

right now my peak is at like 6300 if i add a blower will the peak move up more or stay the same, what im tryin to decide is 1, am i gona go blower or stay N/a, if i stay N/a im gonna have Al Pappito forge by bottom end and work my heads so i can spin her up to some 75/7600 shifts safely, to get the full advantage of my cams, option 2 slap on a p1sc now and have Al forge the motor later, and MAYBE do the heads, i sat at AL's shop for like 2 hours ear;ier and talked to him about all the options, on the way home i got a massive headache from thinkin about it so hard, either way its gonna cost some mula$ , im worried about if i go the blower route, that because of my cams and me havin to shift at 7300 now that with the added power up there with the blower that the motor will blow before im ready to forge it. AAAAAAAHHHHH my head hurts!!

[corysmach1]

How much power are you making now?

[Iceman]

360

[Ralph Greene]

A stock engine with blower "can" live a long time for spirited street use (or blow up on the dyno....it wasn't designed for blower power), and driven by an old guy like me could almost live a normal length life for steet use. If you keep the boost down, don't spin it too high, and run a rich tune without much timing, it can last a long time.

But if you are going to race it, then it won't last long in stock form. Been there.

My advice is to have Al begin you a new engine now, while you are driving this one, let him take his time, then when it's ready install it with your blower. There is no point in putting a blower on your stock engine for your use, it won't last long, and it's inconvenient to try to fix a blown engine in a hurry.

[Boss 330]

Will...Take a deep breath.
Since your primary focus is drag racing.
Rather than spend $4000+ on a blower and supporting hardware...and then spit a rod out totally destroying your engine..Now you need another $7000 to put another engine together. Also adding another 100 or so hp will kill everything from the block back.. Forget running a 3650 trans on slicks with 480+ hp..Your 10 spline input shaft probably won't last one pass. Add another $3500 for a scattershield, Built TKO and another driveshaft.
I have a better idea..

#1 Buy a trailer.
PRACTICE!

#2 Do everything possible to remove weight. You can lose a ton off the front end in one day. Dump the stupidly heavy stock hood and useless shaker in favor of a Glass Kaenen Cobra hood. Thats about 30 pounds.
PRACTICE!

Lightweight front brakes are another quick 25 pounds.
#3 Battery in trunk
PRACTICE!

#4 ET streets are not slicks.. 10-26-15 ET drags and 4.56 gears are where you should be.
While you are in there dump your eaton posi..That pos is going to explode. 6000 rpm launches and a chassis that works is no place for an Eaton posi. Put in a $ 160.00 spool.
PRACTICE!

#5 Be first in line every Saturday morning 10:00 am at Bradenton motorsport park.The primary reason is it's the best hooking track in Fla. The secondary reason is they run during the day. Why is that important.. Take someone with you to operate a good video camera. Later at home when it's quiet replay the vid's. You will be amazed what you can learn.
Make as many passes as you can afford.. I say this because you are going to break parts..it's a fact of life. ( Thats why you need a trailer) You MUST be shifting at 7000 minium..7200 would be better.
You already have enough power and mostly correct pieces to run very low
11's and your not. I was in Kansas 2004 and watched Bob Cosby run 11.47, 11.45 and 11.43 at 118 mph to win and reset the record every pass. He had about 360 hp..Stock K member, Stock brakes 275 drag radials and 3400 pounds. the conditions were terrible.
I'm not saying you should run with a world champ.. I am saying you should be running almost a .08-.10 faster than you are. Until you are making better use of the power you have , adding more power is the wrong answer.
Oh, There was a subliminal message here and there... PRACTICE!

[Iceman]

ya your right AL, my brain gets goin a 118 mph and i get all stressed out about it, ive figured oout my new plan
1 practice
2 finish out the suspension, drag springs airbag shox stuts
3 practice
4 buy trailer
5 practice
6 get some 456 and true slicks
7 practice
8 hood and weight reductions
9 practice

thanks Al id probably be really lost and real slow without ya!!

[Angus66]

Originally Posted by Boss 330

Will...Take a deep breath.
Since your primary focus is drag racing.
Rather than spend $4000+ on a blower and supporting hardware...and then spit a rod out totally destroying your engine..Now you need another $7000 to put another engine together. Also adding another 100 or so hp will kill everything from the block back.. Forget running a 3650 trans on slicks with 480+ hp..Your 10 spline input shaft probably won't last one pass. Add another $3500 for a scattershield, Built TKO and another driveshaft.
I have a better idea..

#1 Buy a trailer.
PRACTICE!

#2 Do everything possible to remove weight. You can lose a ton off the front end in one day. Dump the stupidly heavy stock hood and useless shaker in favor of a Glass Kaenen Cobra hood. Thats about 30 pounds.
PRACTICE!

Lightweight front brakes are another quick 25 pounds.
#3 Battery in trunk
PRACTICE!

#4 ET streets are not slicks.. 10-26-15 ET drags and 4.56 gears are where you should be.
While you are in there dump your eaton posi..That pos is going to explode. 6000 rpm launches and a chassis that works is no place for an Eaton posi. Put in a $ 160.00 spool.
PRACTICE!

#5 Be first in line every Saturday morning 10:00 am at Bradenton motorsport park.The primary reason is it's the best hooking track in Fla. The secondary reason is they run during the day. Why is that important.. Take someone with you to operate a good video camera. Later at home when it's quiet replay the vid's. You will be amazed what you can learn.
Make as many passes as you can afford.. I say this because you are going to break parts..it's a fact of life. ( Thats why you need a trailer) You MUST be shifting at 7000 minium..7200 would be better.
You already have enough power and mostly correct pieces to run very low
11's and your not. I was in Kansas 2004 and watched Bob Cosby run 11.47, 11.45 and 11.43 at 118 mph to win and reset the record every pass. He had about 360 hp..Stock K member, Stock brakes 275 drag radials and 3400 pounds. the conditions were terrible.
I'm not saying you should run with a world champ.. I am saying you should be running almost a .08-.10 faster than you are. Until you are making better use of the power you have , adding more power is the wrong answer.
Oh, There was a subliminal message here and there... PRACTICE!

GREAT advice right there. :THUMBSUP:

A large percentage of folks that I run into at the drag strip say they NEED more power to run a quicker ET, when (in most cases) they absolutely do not.

Adding additional rwhp is a very poor Band-Aid that can't fix a poorly set-up car, reduce weight or make-up for lack of track experience.

My Mach makes ~ 335 rwhp naturally-aspirated & runs in the mid - to lower 11's regularly.

Re-focus your energy on making the suspension work + lose some weight in the right areas & you'll be running faster - probably a LOT faster - in no time...